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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.